Since it's USB, my first thought was to unplug it and plug it back in. That should get you a similar amount of time again, before it freezes again. But it also risks reordering the entire list of capture devices, so that all of them are messed up. So you'll want to try that when you don't need it to work RIGHT NOW, and you have time to troubleshoot and get it back to working again before you need it.
That's not a real solution, but if it can be made to not mess up everything else, it might get you going until you can replace that capture card.
I'd seriously look at an internal capture card to replace it, because USB has several problems. They're cheap, and they get you going quickly, but cheap also means cut corners, as you're finding out, and counterfeit or at least deceptive presentation.
I have 5 of them with USB 3 connectors, and they're sold as such, but it's actually a USB 2 chip inside, that must compress the video to squeeze it through USB 2 before it even gets to the computer. (MJPEG compression is simply a JPG of each frame as a still image, with no knowledge of the other frames; if you've seen the "fuzzies" in a JPG image, that's what it's doing to your video before it even leaves the capture card) One of those cards is in my home rig, with an HDMI camcorder, and the other 4 were at church and recently replaced with a 4-input internal card.
Those 4 USB captures were never in sync with each other, and always off by different amounts, so it was impossible to line them up once and leave it. And they needed to be rebooted with the computer to avoid freezing after several weeks, which itself turned out to be a challenge because this computer is stuck with its USB ports powered 24/7, even when it's otherwise shut down. (no jumper and no BIOS setting) An automotive relay for the internal power harness and a button box fixed that:
- When the computer is running, the 12V rail (yellow wire) keeps the relay on.
- When the computer turns itself off, the 12V rail naturally goes away, which causes the relay to drop out and kill the 5V standby power (purple wire), using it instead to light an LED in the button box.
- The button bypasses the relay to force the 5V standby power on, and the BIOS is set to always turn on after a power failure, which is exactly what happened from its perspective. The 12V rail comes back, the relay pulls in, the LED goes out, and you can let go of the button.
The relay and button box are probably not needed anymore, with the internal capture card, but I still like how it works, so I'll leave it there.
I also noticed that you have the Soundboard Audio in *every* scene. I might suggest you use a global audio source for that (Settings -> Audio), and reduce the number of things in each scene. It might be okay as it is, but the global source would guarantee that the scene transition is silent, because there is no transition for that source.
Taking the concept even further, you might make *all* of your audio sources global, and use the
Advanced Scene Switcher plugin to automate fading them up and down according to the current scene. The reason for that is because the scene transition always does a hard cut for the included audio, whereas a global is not cut off and can therefore do whatever you want.
